The average age of the Baden-Baden
visitor is high, as is the price tag for an overnight stay, but that
shouldn't stop you from visiting. If you enjoy spa culture or Russian
history, Baden-Baden may be just the place for you. It's on the train
line that runs from Hamburg to Basel, as well as the one from
Frankfurt to Lyon, so this city and its thermal waters can be worked into many
a European trip.
Surgical strike
Make Baden-Baden a day stop between two
overnight trains or pause for a little pampering on the way to
Frankfurt for your flight out. Leave your luggage in one of the train
station lockers for between two and five Euros. Just bring a change
of underwear or clothes, a comb, and your minimal makeup and face
cream, if you have any. The bus stop is to your right as you exit the
train station, and about two Euros will get you downtown. Get off at
Leopoldplatz and follow the signs to Caracalla or Friedrichsbad.
How to choose your bath
Baden-Baden has two thermal baths,
Friedrichsbad and Caracalla, old and new, respectively. Both are
lovely, but the two offer very distinct bathing experiences.
Friedrichsbad
If you're interested in
history or have read a lot of literature that mentions Baden-Baden,
you might prefer Friedrichsbad. Don't be put off by the nude mixed
bathing (the central pools are mixed even on the “separate”bating
days). There is ZERO pickup scene. This is the bath to choose if
you're looking for quiet, relaxation, introspection, or searching for
your inner child. Massages are pleasant but short, so if you're on a
strict budget opt out and spend your time steaming and soaking.
Friedrichsbad also has free lockers for large luggage that can be
used while you bathe, if you don't trust the train station.
Friedrichsbad tips
* Don't be unnerved by the
Russian-accented attendants or the timetable posted on the wall in the room with the heated floor. You are free to set your own pace and move from pool to poll
and back again at your leisure.
* If you think you might want to return
to the sauna, take your seat pad with you and store it on one of the
plastic shelves in the pool area. (The burly brush-masseuse is in charge of
seat pads. She will probably give you a second one if you ask, but
you might not want to.)
* The recommended treatment ends with a
nap, which I suggest you take. It's especially heavenly if your last
sleep was on an overnight train.
Friedrichsbad particulars
Friedrichsbad is open Monday through
Sunday, 9:00-22:00 (10:00 pm). It's completely closed on Christmas Eve and Day,
and closes early, at 20:00 (8:00 pm), on new Year's Eve. Last entrance is
always two hours before closing time. The baths are fully mixed on
Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays and holidays. Monday,
Thursday, and Saturday, bathing is single-sex except in the two
central pools. Four hours with no massage is 23 euros and includes
towels, soap, and moisturizer. The full packet with brush massage and
cream massage is 43 euros.
Caracalla
If you want to spend a
romantic afternoon with your traveling companion or are looking to
meet new people, this is the place for you. Caracalla has a much
younger, hipper crowd and beautiful modern facilities. The sauna is
dimly lit by a very pretty simulated starry ceiling and the outdoor
pools are especially lovely on a sunny afternoon. For additional
fees, this bathhouse offers a range of spa services such as massages
and pedicures. Book at the front desk when you pay your entrance fee.
Caracalla tips:
* Caracalla is a little less expensive than Friedrichsbad, but has fewer extras included. Bring your own soap and moisturizer.
* A bathing suits is mandatory, so add
that and something towel-like to your list.
* Bring a cup to sample the spring waters from
the drinking fountains on the way out.
Caracalla particulars
Caracalla is open Monday through
Sunday, 8:00-22:00 (10:00 pm). It's completely closed on Christmas Eve and Day,
and closes early, at 20:00 (8:00 pm), on new Year's Eve. Last entrance is
always two hours before closing time. Twenty euros gets you a
four-hour wristband, no extras.
What else?
After your bath, stroll down to the
area below Friedrichsbad and peek through the plexiglass at the ruins of the Roman
baths. Don't pay to go in; the exhibit area is small enough that
you can see everything from the outside. Then walk up the stairs past
the Kirche der Klosterschule vom Heiligen Grab. If you have a cup
with you, stop at this plaza and sample the hot, metallic-tasting
spring water from the drinking fountain. This is also a nice spot for
a little picnic if you've brought food with you. Up another flight of
stairs is a lovely view of the city, and the maintenance entrance to
the hot springs. The tourist office is in the old Trinkhalle, across
the Oosbach. They will give you a free map better than the Falk
version, and help you locate the Russian church, the expensive but interesting Faberge museum, or whatever other
sight you might want to see. Foodwise, there are no bargains. Plan a
splurge, bring a picnic with, or sate yourself at a snack
bar/Imbiss.
All photos and tips by Shyamali Ghosh. For more Baden-Baden pictures, visit http://www.flickr.com/photos/70781501@N05/sets/72157628177346325/.
