Raja Market is at the heart of a busy, chaotic neighborhood. It’s hard to find, making it a potentially challenging outing even for those with solid India experience. This market is worth the effort, though, especially for anyone in the market for silver or costume jewelry, Raja Market’s specialties. There are gold shops, too, but these are narrow and modest, barely noticeable among the bright displays of colored beads, fancy fabric trimmings, fake hair, and gold-fill costume jewelry. Raja Market is a costume designer’s dream, and a must-visit for Bangalorean brides to be. It’s also a truly authentic Indian experience.
The main challenge is getting there. Many of the streets around Raja Market are closed to traffic (don’t expect them to be anything but packed, though) and others are so narrow and busy that auto drivers often refuse to drive on them. Beyond that, about half of all auto drivers know nothing about Raja Market. Guys just don’t go there to shop, especially guys as short of cash as these. So, ask an auto driver to take you to the intersection of Chickpete Road and Avenue Road. He'll most likely drop you at a busy intersection on Chickpete and point you towards Avenue Road. Walk along Chickpete, dodging between fruit carts and men carrying bundles bigger than they are on their backs. Touts from the fabric stores—this is one of Bangalore’s better known shopping areas for cloth and clothing—will call out to you. Ignore them, unless you want half a dozen bright polyester saris. If you’re looking for some cotton cloth, this is not a bad place to get it. Check the more modest shops and stalls for southern plaids and light-colored shirt-weight material.
Keep just half an eye on the muddy gutters under your feet and look up at the vibrant multicolored displays of saris and cloth for salwar suits. Advertising banners hang overhead. Street signs are nonexistant, so check the addresses on the stores’ signs at each intersection to see if you’ve come to Avenue Road. When you do, take a moment to look around. Where, exactly, the market is will depend on where your driver chose to drop you. Stores selling jewelry and accessories rather than fabric are a clue, and there’s a marked entrance on each side of the market.
Don’t hesitate to step inside. There are always plenty of shoppers, but the atmosphere is markedly less hectic than outside. Most stores are busy enough that they don’t need an outdoor tout, and foreigners are never their best customers. Stop to admire the henna artist’s designs, marvel at the man braiding beads onto string for necklaces while he holds the cord taut between his toes, and get a closer look at the silver bowls made for temple offerings. If you’re interested in sewing or planning to get some Indian clothes made, step further into the market towards the “fancy” stalls that sell colorful ribbons and lamé edgings.
If you want a new ring or a necklace, go upstairs to Chitalia Brothers. Their sign says silver jewelry, gold, and diamonds, but except for a small selection of gold fill for brides and dancers, it’s a place for silver. Ask for earrings, bangles, or pendants and an assistant will pour a heap of them from a plastic tub onto the counter. All are on cards marked with the price—no bargaining here—and wrapped in protective plastic. You’ll be given a velvet-lined tray to hold anything you think you might be interested in, and can make your choice after everything you didn't like is back in the box. The service is pleasant and attentive and though they do clearly hope to sell you more than you planned to buy, their suggestions are more helpful than not, and rarely pushy. The jewelry is well-made, durable enough to wear every day, but Indian silver isn’t sterling and the semiprecious stones are of dubious quality. At these prices, though—the most elaborate earrings cost around $25—you’re getting your money’s worth. One note of caution: neither Chitalia nor any of their neighbors sizes rings, nor do American jewelers. The exact combination of metals isn’t always known, which is apparently critical to getting good results, so don’t buy rings unless they fit well enough for you to wear them comfortably.
Once you’re done shopping and have see the sights, exit the market through the hall to your left if you’ve come in on Avenue Road. If it’s a relatively quiet time of day, take a moment to check out the fruit and snack carts. Treats like fresh figs and guavas are often for sale at prices far below those on busier streets. Remember to rinse with bottled water before eating. More likely, though, you’ll be ready to take one of the autos that congregate there to your next stop.
Additional destinations in the neighborhood include Tipu Sultan’s summer palace and Lalbagh gardens, both relatively peaceful.
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